In a lot of ways, Ridgewood, Queens, reminds me of Philadelphia. (Giants fans, please don’t @ me.) Let me explain: There’s the narrow streets, which create this cloistered, deeply neighborhood-y feeling. It’s broadly residential, teeming with a diverse mix of families, young working people and longtime residents — you have to look out for the businesses because they blend so well into the surrounding apartment buildings.

And just like Philly, I’m always excited to spend time eating there. It is worth your time to explore the root causes of the neighborhood's rapid gentrification,66jogo and it’s just as important to observe its vibrancy up close as it quickly becomes a very special place for dining out. Here are three ways to make the most of a day of eating in Ridgewood.

ImageThe masa pancakes with cinnamon-dusted butter and maple syrup at Hellbender.Credit...Heather Willensky for The New York TimesMasa pancakes? Oh yes.

I visited Hellbender last year for a late dinner, but I decided to drop by again for the Mexican-influenced restaurant’s brunch. The menu overlaps in some places with Hellbender’s dinner offerings (i.e. skirt steak, lamb tacos and fried Oaxacan cheese), but I believe brunch has the potential to be its strong suit. It’s here that I discovered the answer to all my pancake dreams: masa pancakes with cinnamon-dusted butter and maple syrup.

You read that right. Masa. What that means is a crispy exterior that gives way to a somehow melty inside. The pancakes themselves aren’t all that sweet — that’s what the maple syrup is for; pour it with aplomb — they lean more earthy and savory. Those who don’t believe pancakes should be a main might consider ordering two of the scrambled egg tostadas with black beans, Cheddar and salsa macha on a crispy tortilla from the small plates section of the menu. Or Hellbender might consider making that dish a main; it’s that good.

68-22 Forest Avenue (68th Road)

ImageThe Forest pizza with oyster mushrooms, ricotta, mozzarella, garlic oil and dill at Pizzeria Panina.Credit...Heather Willensky for The New York Times

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